Fendi leads Milan trends with feminine silhouettes for men

MILAN – Milan menswear designers look to person decided connected the answer, but the question remains: Have the pandemic lockdowns emboldened men to clasp a much feminine silhouette, including skirts, mini-dresses and cape coats?

The Milan Fashion Week of previews for adjacent wintertime and autumn continued for the 2nd time Saturday, with guests enjoying the pandemic norm of societal distancing compared to erstwhile cramped shoulder-to-shoulder seating. The calendar was slimmed down aft the omicron variant started its surge successful Italy past month, but that unrecorded shows went up astatine each was a motion of optimism aft January 2021’s digital-only Milan Fashion Week.

Eager fans again crowded sidewalks extracurricular runway shows, hoping for a glimpse of Italian rapper Mahmoud astatine Fendi, oregon Machine Gun Kelly and fiancée Megan Fox astatine Dolce&Gabbana.

As a rule, men’s collections connected Milan’s runways this play person truthful acold hewed blimpish connected the colour palette, leaving the risk-taking to the silhouette.

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Fendi’s postulation for adjacent autumn and wintertime was infused with the manner house’s disciplined tailoring and elegance — with immoderate invited eccentricities to lighten things up. They included a leather aviator headdress with the flair of a Moroccan fez.

The toned-down colour palette successful gray, achromatic and ivory with flashes of reddish seemed to suggest that the postulation was concern arsenic usual, but past Silvia Venturini Fendi threw successful immoderate astonishing silhouettes, starting with a men’s Bermuda abbreviated with the tailoring and travel of a skirt, worn with sheer knee-highs and buckled two-tone pointed Mary Janes. She past projected wide-leg formal trousers that lone from the backmost showed to beryllium skirted. They were paired with jackets, oregon knitwear that had a feminine peek-a-boo V connected the chest.

Leaning successful connected the femininity, voluminous, trapezoidal outerwear with loose, slotted sleeves built to a crescendo with pretty, layered cape coats successful achromatic and-white check, oregon ivory.

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The accessories were ne'er exaggerated, adjacent erstwhile tripled: Bucket hat, cross-body container and overnight container aligned successful a cleanable geometry. Fendi is not the archetypal to enactment pearls connected men, theirs anchored dickie collars. The manner location besides continued the inclination of tiny bags — hide the wallet and find a pouch for your telephone -- which men carried connected chains.

While womenswear astatine Fendi has been taken implicit by British decorator Kim Jones, who has launched a buzzy collaboration with Versace, the menswear postulation inactive carries Silvia Venturini Fendi's signature, representing the 3rd Fendi generation.

Machine Gun Kelly headlined astatine Dolce&Gabbana, making astatine slightest 3 wardrobe changes during the runway show, and handing his overgarment to Fox successful the beforehand enactment earlier performing astatine the adjacent of the show. The rapper is known for his flamboyant dressing, and nary uncertainty recovered overmuch to store connected the runway.

Dolce&Gabbana's puffer coats and matching trousers marque the Michelin antheral look slim, successful bubble gum pinkish oregon scrawled with the season’s graffiti print. Warmth was truthful guaranteed that astatine slightest 1 exemplary wore conscionable branded briefs. As a cold-weather alternative, determination were abominable snowman-worthy shaggy eco-furs with matching boots and earmuffs.

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The jackets of the play person exaggerated shoulders, paired with leggings and worn with visor glasses and molded sneakers. A metallic sequined suit was stage-worthy, with skinny eyeglass frames perched connected the chemoreceptor successful a mode much suggestive of sci-fi lasers than speechmaking glasses. A bold graffiti-emblazoned streetwear ensemble was finished with a gangly knit headdress successful bluish that gave a Marge Simpson vibe.

While flash is portion of the Dolce&Gabbana repertoire arsenic overmuch arsenic its tailoring, what was much unexpected were the skirts for men. One tweed midi belted with a golden concatenation was worn with a ripped DG T-shirt and leather collar. A achromatic kilt had a DG graffiti-scrawled sweater. A shimmering pink-to-gold minidress oregon agelong tunic, depending connected your spin, was paired with matching leggings.

Nothing astir this season's skirt silhouette connected Milan menswear runways is astonishing for the designers astatine the London-based JordanLuca brand, which made its Milan debut.

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“I deliberation the spectrum of menswear is truthful wide now,’’ said Jordan Brown, who launched the statement with Luca Marchetto 4 years ago. “We are truthful post, post, post, what is menswear and womenswear.”

Tailored kilts, immoderate with tulle panels, are a play mainstay astatine JordanLuca.

“The happening astir the kilt, is it is 4 oregon 5 meters (yards) of fabric. It is truly technical, it is an engineered garment. Why wouldn’t a antheral deterioration it? The folding, the pleating, the stitching. It is rather pugnacious to make,” Brown said backstage.

The brand's breathtaking long-lean silhouette was accentuated by long, dragging wing-like hems connected close-fitting trousers. The looks had a rock-n-roll vibe, fusing elements inspired by punk, glam and grunge. They included trousers purposely ripped unfastened supra the genu and fastened with a rhinestone brooch oregon brushed mohair sweaters accented with a trailing spiky strand draped astir the neck.

The postulation showed a beardown tendency to beryllium retired successful the world, liberated from pandemic restrictions.

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“The much that we instrumentality to carnal shows, the much we felt we are returning to our physicality, our benignant of quality spirit, that benignant of visceral instinct,’’ Brown said.

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